At Stars and Stripes, we believe the purpose of our community papers, magazines, special supplements, websites and social media platforms is to help you, the military community, make the most of your time while being stationed in the Pacific. We take our job seriously and know that our first-hand experiences are how we can bring you the best tips, directions and recommendations for exploring off base.

This summer, our team including Korea writer Hyemin Lee and Okinawa writer Shoji Kudaka, gathered at our Tokyo headquarters to spend time brainstorming and discussing ways to make sure you’re getting the information you need. For one week, our page designers, web editors and writers talked storytelling and presentation with you in mind.

This year, Hyemin, Shoji, their fellow writers Takahiro Takiguchi and Luis Samayoa from mainland Japan, and their editor, Denisse Rauda, brainstormed their perfect half day trips in Tokyo. The four writers partnered up and they spent an entire day exploring Tokyo. Last week, we published a 4-page spread about Shoji and Luis’ trip to Shinjuku. This time, they’re taking you to their other half day trip at Yanaka Ginza.

Tokyo has an incredible public transit system, so getting around to multiple locations is a breeze. We hope after reading this, you’ll get some travel inspo and plan your own fun trip! And don’t miss the following editions where Hyemin and Takahiro take us to two other great spots!

– Chris Carlson, Publishing and Media Design Manager

-----

Yanaka Ginza sat on my bucket list for a long time. This old town in Tokyo’s Taito ward is known for its old buildings and a shopping street lined with unique shops. Although I lived in Tokyo from 2006 to 2009, I never went there, even though I was tempted many times when it was spotlighted by popular TV show “Shutsubotsu! Adomachikku Tengoku.” To be honest, I always slept in on the weekends and always felt Yanaka Ginza would be best explored early in the day.

When I learned that I would have time to go out during my temporary duty in Tokyo, I decided it was time to finally check it out.

I knew I would have to wake up early and go there this time. Although some of my travel buddies were not so crazy about departing at 6:30 a.m., I didn’t want this opportunity to be ruined by the notorious crowded commute in Tokyo.

In addition to an early breakfast at a kissaten housed inside an old wooden traditional house, we walked the neighborhood’s narrow streets in search of the local history and alley cats. Though we only found cat statues and cat drawings at Yanaka Ginza, we did find some interesting hidden spots in this quiet, residential area.

– Shoji Kudaka

We set out to Yanaka Ginza on an early morning train. We could have gotten off at Nippori Station or Sendagi Station, if its famous shopping street was our primary destination. But I chose Nezu Station because it was convenient to go to my first stop of the day, Kayaba Coffee, a café housed in a quaint building.

According to the Taito Cultural & Historical Society, this café opened in 1938. The building itself, however, was believed to have been built in 1916 and was used as either a milk hall, a type of eatery inspired by dairy lunch in the U.S., or a shaved ice store before it became Kayaba Coffee.

My idea was that having breakfast at this café while enjoying the retro atmosphere of the building’s interior would put us in the right mood to explore this old town.

Arriving at the café after a10-minute walk from Nezu Station, we noticed the quaint-looking building really stood out, even in the neighborhood that has many old structures.

As we waited for the café to open at 8 a.m., many other folks came to join us in front of the entry, attesting to its popularity. I was glad that I had booked a table in advance on the web.

When the door opened, we were guided to a table at the furthest corner from the entrance. The building was designed in the style of “Machiya-gata,” where a narrow, long floor spread from the entrance with tables lined up. Gently lit by sunlight coming through the opaque glass, the interior had a cozy atmosphere.

Among the menu items that included Yasai Sando (Vegetable Sandwich,1,400 yen) and Tamago Sando (Egg Sandwich, 1,400 yen), I chose Kayaba Classic Tamago Sando, which was meant to be true to the café’s old recipes.

The combo of fluffy omelet, whole-grain bread and mustard mayonnaise tasted mild yet satisfying. As someone who likes spicy food, I could have used more mustard to spice it up, but the flavor made sense as it was in tune with the moderate atmosphere of the café. To wash down my sandwich, I had “Russian” (730 yen), a mixture of coffee and chocolate. Its delicate mixture of sweetness, bitterness and milkiness got me hooked. It didn’t take me long to finish the hot drink.

By the time we finished our food, about 45 minutes had passed, and all the seats on the floor were full. Although we could have spent another half an hour just chatting in the cozy café, we decided to let those waiting outside take our comfortable seats.

– Shoji Kudaka

Shoji was very interested in an early visit to this coffee joint and I came along for the ride.

For food, I ordered blindly from the Japanese menu by saying “this one and that one” in an attempt to simply try something different. I was not disappointed with my corned beef sandwich, salad and espresso on the side.

It was a heavy yet tasty breakfast sandwich that paired great with my coffee. At first, I felt a lack of confidence with my espresso served in tiny cup, but it was still delicious. And I’m sure it was much better than Denisse’s boring regular cup of joe.

If you want to order a different and bigger coffee size, use the English menu. If your day starts at 5 a.m. because your travel partner wants to be first in line, the espresso will be your best friend!

Overall, I would come back to this little cafe again. I liked the lack of tourists when we first got there, but it did fill up quickly, so maybe you’ll need an early morning wake-up, too!

– Luis Samayoa

Things to know

• GPS Coordinates: 35.721174, 139.770755

• Hours: 8 a.m. – 6 p.m. (last order at 5 p.m.) *Closed on Mondays. (The café will open if a Monday falls on a holiday and close on Tuesday)

• Instagram

• Travel back in time at Kannonji in Tokyo’s Taito

• A visit to Nezu Shrine in Tokyo

• VIDEO: Yanaka Ginza: Disappointment at retro shopping arcade

Camp Zama

Naval Air Facility Atsugi

Yokota Air Base

Yokosuka Naval Base

related stories

• VIDEO: Yanaka Ginza: Disappointment at retro shopping arcade
• A visit to Nezu Shrine in Tokyo
• Travel back in time at Kannonji in Tokyo’s Taito