Have you ever heard of the Kingdom of Bhutan? It is a mysterious land and, for me, that is one of its attractions. Its mystery can be traced to its isolation, both geographically and culturally.

I’ve dreamt of traveling to Bhutan for many years. Then, last summer, Dear Wife encouraged me to make the dream come true.

So, I began researching, reading articles and watching videos. The more I learned about Bhutan, the stronger my desire to visit grew. I read an old National Geographic Magazine article headlined “Bhutan’s Enlightened Experiment” and went on to state: “Guided by a novel idea, the tiny Buddhist kingdom tries to join the modern world without losing its soul.” Huh, a country concerned about its soul?

I discovered that government policy discouraged visitors all the way up until the 1970’s. At that time, conditions in Bhutan were pretty backward, a populace undereducated, an underdeveloped infrastructure, economic stagnation and outdated healthcare.

King Jigme Singye Wangchuck came to power in 1972 and recognized that his people needed help to adjust to the modern world. Since then, his successors have worked hard to improve the lives of the people.

Today, citizens enjoy free healthcare, free education, agriculture support, social welfare programs and unemployment compensation. If someone cannot get proper medical treatment in Bhutan, the government arranges for hospitalization in India. I met students on the plane flying home to Bhutan. The government gave them scholarships to study nursing in Thailand.

English is taught in every school. Almost everyone speaks English very well, in addition to their native language and local dialects.

King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck, the current ruler, is building a new, modern city in the south, complete with a new airport. The city is being planned, in part, to help Bhutan keep its young people in the country. It is designed to be ecologically based, integrating the natural world with the community.

Months of planning

My journey to the Kingdom of Bhutan began a full seven months before I set foot in the country. I had written to three of the top-rated Bhutanese travel companies asking for a personalized itinerary of about two weeks.

Festivals are held primarily in the spring and fall and are a must-see for any visit. The large festivals are held in Paro and the capital, Thimphu.

Smaller, local celebrations are held all over Bhutan. I asked for an itinerary that would include the unfurling of the holy scroll on the last day of the Paro Tshechu. I also wanted a few half-day hikes in the high mountains and remote forests.

All three travel agencies replied with very nice itineraries.

However, Tshering Dorji with Bhutan Scenic Tours, wrote a plan that best suited my personality.

Over the next few months Tshering and I exchanged quite a few emails. He recommended a few books and videos, which really helped me better prepare for the visit. He encouraged me to learn as much as possible and to make changes in the itinerary to meet my needs. After learning a bit more about Bhutan, Tshering and I extended the trip to a whopping 19 days. I am so glad we did so.

For one addition, I learned we were going to be near Talo during their annual Tshechu. Now, Talo is a small community, way up a winding mountain road. It was a real community event. So, we added Talo, and it turned out to be most enjoyable.

Getting there part of fun

Getting to Bhutan is part of the fun. There are no direct flights. Drukair (Royal Bhutan Airlines), the national carrier, and Bhutan Airlines, a more recent private company, are the only airlines that service Bhutan internationally. Flights from Asia are limited to Thailand, Singapore and India. Due to the high mountainous landing and takeoff, only a few specially trained pilots are licensed to fly to Paro, the only international airport.

During major festivals, flights and hotels can be fully booked, so good planning is a must. Overtourism is not a concern in Bhutan. They hope for 300,000 tourists a year, but after the pandemic, in 2023, only around 130,000 tourists visited and many were from nearby India.

Bhutan strongly believes in sustainable tourism. Currently, there is a $100 a day fee that is used in preservation of its pristine environment, rich culture and heritage. If you are considering a visit, don’t let the fee discourage you. My entire stay in Bhutan, cost less than $350 a day and that included almost all expenses - hotels, meals, tips, a full-time guide and driver.

By the way, a guide and driver are required for almost any stay in Bhutan. You really need a professional driver for the winding mountain roads. There is road work everywhere as the government has made it a priority to improve the transportation system. Guides make sure you have a memorable visit, one in which you learn Bhutan’s rich history and culture on a personal basis.

Land of wonder

Bhutan is truly a land of wonder. I spent my days hiking through pristine forests, going to impressive ancient temples, visiting unique cultural sites, and getting to know the people of Bhutan living their everyday lives. Three of the nights were spent in home visits with local families. One was a respected yak herder, a legend in his community. A two-night stay on a potato farm in a remote local area gave me the opportunity to experience a stay in a traditional and ancient farmhouse. The husband was away serving in the army and the wife ran the farm. Her daughter teaches at the elementary school and the grandmother watches over the daughter’s newborn.

Hotels are modern and clean and the food delicious. Lots of local fresh vegetables! Service was impeccable with lots of caring and smiles.

Today, visitors are warmly welcomed, not only by the government, but also by its people. Still, relatively few tourists visit Bhutan. In my almost three weeks in Bhutan, until the time of a major festival, I rarely saw another. And, most were Europeans, very few Americans.

Talo festival

A highlight of the trip was the Talo festival. We arrived early at 7 a.m. and received blessings from the temple lama. You see, these festivals are true religious celebrations with the early events concentrating on spirituality. Later on, there are dances and song.

There were only a few other foreigners in attendance. They arrived in a bus in the late morning, stayed maybe an hour and left. I felt fortunate that my guide, Lekden, arranged for us to come early enough to participate more fully in the festival.

Families brought lunches and shared them with me. Little children would come up to me, speaking perfect English and welcome me. The lively clowns included me in their randy antics, handing me the relic inspired by the Divine Madman. I felt a part of the celebration, not just an observer.

By the way, the “relics” of the Divine Madman are everywhere. I am too shy to explain fully the antics of the Divine Madman. Look him up online and you will gain a surprising insight into the unique magic of Bhutan!

I strongly recommend that you visit Bhutan during a festival. The large one in Paro was most impressive, but the smaller Tshechu in Talo connected me more closely with the local people.

Incredible people, hospitality

Now is a good time to tell you about Lekden, the guide, and Tashi, the driver. Tshering and I planned the trip, but it was up to Lekden and Tashi to make it happen.

Lekden is the reason that I was able to feel a part of celebration at Talo. Lekden connected me with the people of Bhutan, so that I was not always the observer. I am a retired educator. Lekden arranged for me to observe students at two traditional arts schools.

He encouraged me when I helped a student shop clerk in Thimphu with her English homework while I was shopping for traditional bags. He also arranged for me to meet with the three teen children of a hotel owner. Those kids had so many questions and we spent over two hours discussing life in Bhutan and the world.

He waited patiently as I stopped and caught my breath-over and over again. He encouraged me along the way, always reminding me to stop and drink water. He was much too easily impressed by my hiking level and added additional hikes. As a result, I look back now and am a wee bit proud. We made the round-trip to Tiger’s Nest and back in just over three and a half hours. Wow, so speedy!

Lekden is a walking Bhutanese encyclopedia. I learned so much about Bhutan’s rich history, traditional culture and devout people, not just by hearing, but by experiencing.

And Tashi, yes, a driver, but much more. The roads in Bhutan are scary and can be treacherous. Tashi navigated the curves with caution and seemed to know where every bump in the road was located, steering expertly around them. He also looked after me, picking up my dropped wallet as I left the car, keeping me supplied with water and making sure I did not leave anything behind.

I may have been attracted by Bhutan’s majestic scenery, but the hospitality of its people made the greatest impression. Everywhere I went, I met people filled with warmth and inner peace. They were as eager to get know me, as I was to know them. Its people are as majestic as its impressive landscapes.

• Hello: Kuzuzangpola

• Thank you: Kadrinchhey

• No thank you: Me Zhu

• Please eat/drink: Zhey!

• It is delicious: Zhimbay

• What is your name?: Na gi tshen gachi mo?

• My name is: Nge gi ming

• Where are you from?: Chhoe gatey ley mo?

• I am from....: Nga.... ley ein

• Goodbye!: Log jaygay!

• Bhutan Scenic Tours

• Lonely Planet

• Bhutan Travel

• Nomads Unveiled

Festivals links:

• https://abto.org.bt/festivals

• https://www.thirdrockadventures.com/travel-guide/festivals-in-bhutan

• Association of Bhutanese Tour Operators

Helpful videos to watch before visiting:

• Learning a few words in the native language really brings a smile. Jam Jam teaches basic phrases.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N7Da2ChGMDo

• A most delightful movie. Watching it will bring tears of joy: Lunana: A Yak in the Classroom (2019)

https://www.bilibili.tv/en/video/4787537374091776

• A must-see Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown Bhutan adventure, wild and crazy!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9oiz-iU7FP8

Books

• Culture Smart: “An insight into the country’s history, values, customs, and age-old traditions” by Karma Choden and Dorji Wangchuk

• “Treasures of The Thunder Dragon: A Portrait of Bhutan” by Bhutan’s Queen Mother, Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuck

• “Beyond the Sky and the Earth: A Journey into Bhutan” by Jamie Zeppa

• “Married to Bhutan” by Linda Leaming

About the author

Alvin DeWalt is a Navy veteran and retired DODEA teacher. He has lived in Japan since 1999. Although he is 72 years old, he still leads an active life.

Read more from Alvin here.

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