Phu Quoc, the biggest island in Vietnam, is known for its white-sand beaches, turquoise water and hiking trails. A destination wedding brought me to the “Maldives of Vietnam,” but after a few days I got tired of the resort life.

I found my guide, Hien, through Airbnb Experiences, where she offered a personalized 3-hour tour. We worked together via WhatsApp to put together an afternoon itinerary that included “eating a popular cake.” It cost $20 initially, but I opted to have a lot of the tour be by taxi instead of scooter to reduce travel time and maximize our time at each location.

Dinh Cau Rocks

We started with a tour of Dinh Cau Rocks, a small temple next to a lighthouse, both perched on a jagged rock formation. Hien explained that it was built to honor the goddess of the sea who protects sailors and fishermen. It is the most visited shrine on the island as it is located in Duong Duong Town, the center of Phu Quoc Island and a short walk from Phu Quoc Night Market. It offers breathtaking views of the harbor, especially at sunrise and sunset, but can get crowded, so our plan was to watch the sunset from a different location.

My personalized tour included foodie-friendly adventures, so after a cautious climb on the nearby rocks, my guide took me for an afternoon snack of chè, a Vietnamese dessert best described as a sweet soup or pudding. I chose a hot coconut milk base with soft tofu, tapioca and ginger syrup. It was sweet, surprisingly refreshing, and worth sitting in a deep squat on a plastic seat on a hot day.

Ong Lang Beach

We got in a taxi then headed a bit north to Din Bah, a Buddhist temple that is set between two high end resorts on Ong Lang Beach. The beautiful grounds overlook the beach and ocean and have plenty of seating from which to take in the beautiful scenery. We were able to walk down to the sand in front of the 5-star Ocean Bay Suites because, as Hien explained, in Vietnam, beach access is public. Hien pointed out that you can see a sliver of Cambodia from the beach.

Suds and sunsets

The sun was already getting low as we left Ong Lang but we quickly made our way through the fish market, where Hien picked out some fruit for us to try later. We arrived about 15 minutes before sunset to have a beer at Tiệm beer thủ công - LoCo Beer, known for its craft beer. The spot is mostly for locals, so all the menus are in Vietnamese. It was a hot day, and my cold lager was refreshing and smooth.

Did someone say cake?

Finally, it was time for cake. But something was lost in translation as the dish I had, banh xeo, is more like a seafood egg crepe and savory, not sweet. I enjoyed it nevertheless, but I struggled a bit using chopsticks to break up pieces of the crepe to stuff into the rice paper shell. However, once I got the hang of it, I was in heaven. The saltiness of the crepe’s seafood filling paired well with the anise-like herbs, crisp lettuce and sour-sweet taste of the guava on top. I busied myself trying to create the perfect bite.

Phu Quoc Night Market

Our adventure ended at the lively night market. There I saw plenty of seafood-based street foods, handmade crafts and inexpensive souvenirs. I was still quite full from the bahn xeo, but made a little room for some rolled ice cream.

Random tips

• Don’t let a long layover keep you trapped in an airport

But make sure if it’s in Vietnam, you get a multi-entry visa. There’s baggage storage for cheap at the airport, so leave your bags behind. I booked a last-minute 3-hour Vietnamese cooking class via Airbnb Experiences to keep me busy during a 9-hour layover on my return flight.

• Pack a USB fan

This came in handy not only for cooling me off but also my phone as its clear plastic protective case made it very unhappy in the heat.

• Transportation

The wedding guests and I mostly used taxis via the Grab app as well as an area bus that went from our resort to the night market area. Scooters are also available to rent, but please wear a helmet.

• Cash is king

Many vendors in Vietnam don’t accept credit cards. Surprisingly, some places will accept U.S. dollars on larger purchases. Watch out for high fees from ATMs and use an app, like Xe, to understand the conversion rate so you don’t overpay for basics like bottled water.

• Water, water everywhere, but from a bottle you should drink

Tap water in Vietnam is unsafe. I noticed that even locals don’t drink it. Make sure the ice in your drinks is from a purified source and even keep a bottle in the bathroom by your toothbrush to be extra safe.

Speakin’ Vietnamese

• Hello: Xin chào (sin chow)

• Thank you: Cảm ơn (gahm uhn)

• Yes: Vâng (vuhng)

• No: Không (khome)

• Please: Làm ơn (lam uhn)

• Excuse me/Sorry: Xin lỗi (sin loy)

• Goodbye: Tạm biệt (tam byet)

Vietnamese

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